Chiddingfold
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St. Mary's Church from behind the Village Pond.
Photograph by George Titus

CHIDDINGFOLD is a small and beautiful village centred around the Green, Pond, Parish Church and Crown Inn, but the parish of some 3500 people and 1200 dwellings extends over 10 square miles, with a boundary of 19 miles being in area one of the largest hereabouts and one with a distinct place in our long national history.

The Britons or Celts had some kind of settlement here, or periodically visited the Weald on the north-west edge of the Andredesweald forest. Certain British water names survive in some of our farms hard by the valleys through which the three brooks by tributaries meander, such as Okelands, Cherfold, and Mesels, with Durfold just beyond the parish boundary. To these may be added the Celtic valley name Cwm, afterwards adopted in the form of Combe (Coombe) by the Saxons, now a common name here.

Traces of Celtic occupation have been found in Golden Horde Field, Saxon treasure field in the form of a large round Bowl Barrow or burial mound, on the county boundary east of Cripplecrutch Hill. Smaller round barrows have also been found at Combe Common.

In Riddingsfield at Whitebeech, is the site of one of the first Roman villas (c.250 AD) to be discovered, in 1883, in the Weald. Excavations have unearthed the foundations of a number of buildings and yielded pottery, glassware, trinkets, bronze ornaments and coins (AD 270) which give some indication that this may have been a Romano-British farming settlement. At Gostrode in the southern part of the parish there are traces of Mesolithic flint napping.

 

There is no evidence of Christianity in Roman Surrey which was divided into districts called hundreds, that is when a settlement became 100 families strong it sent out 10 freeholders or heads of families called Tithings into the woodland areas or wild. They established "folds" or enclosures and under the headman or tithingman administered the affairs of such communities. Originally in the Hundred of Godalming, Chiddingfold had division into three tithings: Chiddingfold Magna, Pockford or Chiddingfold Parva and Sittinghurst, but the latter was taken into Chiddingfold Parva before 1538.

The name of Chiddingfold, "Chadynge's fold", "Chiddingefold", is derived from the Saxon, probably meaning the fold (enclosure for animals) "in the hollow". It may therefore be presumed that some very primitive form of village existed here before the Norman Conquest.

GLASSMAKING and IRONFOUNDING

In Medieval days, Chiddingfold became noted for a short period (1350-1400) for its glass making. Authentic records date this industry as early as 1226, and it continued until the early 17th century when, it is said, but not authenticated, eleven glass furnaces in the area were suppressed during the reign of Elizabeth I on the petition of the inhabitants that they were causing a nuisance.

This action was due largely to the unpopularity of the foreigners (French, Flemings and Germans from Lorraine) who owned these furnaces. A Royal Proclamation of 1615 prohibited the use of wood fuel for industrial purposes. The departure of glassmaking from this area can be attributed to the higher profits that could be derived from smelting glass with coal and from another traditional Wealden industry, ironfounding that operated between 1580 and 1665.

EARLY HISTORY

The Gough Bodleian map c.1356 (Bodleian Library, Oxford) contains nine Surrey names Chiddingfold and Cobham being the two villages. Cobham was of special importance because of the large Benedictine Monastery of Chertsey (c.666) the first Surrey Christian establishment. The Italian Florentine Map c.1567 in (Pallazo Vecchio) cut the numbers of Surrey names to four (Croydon, Guildford, Kingston and Chiddingfold).

Chiddingfold received a royal charter from Edward I in 1300, obtained by Simon of Ghent, Bishop of Sarum, who owned the Manor, establishing it as 'a market town' and conferring the right to a weekly market (Thursday) and a three days fair annually at the feast of the Nativity of B.V.Mary (8th Sept.).

Glassmaking and clothmaking brought prosperity to Chiddingfold but its fame could have been due to the interest of the Bohun/Salisbury family rather than to the small glass industry. When this declined in the early seventeenth century its iron works, or perhaps its geographical position in relation to the southern wool trade and textile industry around Waverley Abbey within the narrow triangle of Winchester, Farnham and Godalming, could have made Chiddingfold notable. The increase in wealth and population brought about by these industries and agriculture is reflected in the fabric of the Parish Church. The only authentic documentary evidence of the Chiddingfold glass industry in the 14th century. It related to the sale and transport of glass from the village to St. George's Chapel, Windsor and to St Stephen's Chapel at Westminster between 1352 and 1356, when the effects of the Black Death (1347) were still being felt. Chiddingfold, because of its isolation, remained immune from the disease and continued production. Because William Wakeman was Clerk of Works at Windsor at this time, it is the belief that he used Chiddingfold glass also in building, later, Winchester and New College, Oxford.

THE VILLAGE

Many residencies retain characteristics of Tudor and earlier dating while others have been here since Georgian times. Mellowed brickwork with some half-timbering and typical Wealden tile-hung elevations, high-pitched gables and handsome brick chimney stacks are evident. In total, 107 local buildings are listed as of exceptional or special historical architectural interest. Twenty-five residencies are named in the church records as having connections with the Peyto family (1562 -1777) including Piccardes atte Bridge, Pound at Combe, Tugley and Gostrode.

 

The CROWN INN is a very picturesque building (previously the site of the Halle) claims to have been established in 1285. The earliest record reference to the present building is in the late 14th century (1383) -the sixth year of King Richard II-when it was fully described in a title deed, a copy of which is displayed in the present lounge. A most impressive feature of the exterior is its half-timbered façade. Towards the end of the 17th century this was tile-hung, but in 1951 when repairs were necessary, permission was given to explore beyond the tiles which revealed the well preserved half-timbered façade which may be as Edward IV saw it.

Opposite the working village smithy on the green stands a hawthorn tree which is believed to date back to the time of Henry VII (1485 - 1509) for it is mentioned as a landmark in a deed now 500 years old. There is a fine group of cottages (16th century and later) around the South Bridge. In this area of the village tanning and the dyeing of cloth were early industries, 16c. (Wodehouse).

THE ROADS

Chiddingfold was on the ancient way from Guildford via Shalford and Hambledon entering the village above Northbridge and going south to Cripplecrutch Hill and the Sussex border on its way via Midhurst Lane to Midhurst and Chichester.



INDUSTRY

Throughout the parish may be seen copses of sweet-chestnut and ash trees which were specially grown for the making of walking sticks and umbrella handles - a rural industry which was almost entirely confined to this part of Surrey. The Stick Factory (Cooper & Sons Ltd, founder Leonard Lintott) was just south of Witley Station - now a residential and light industrial area.

THE VILLAGE GREEN

has been used for many and various events such as Fetes and a Summer two day Festival and in particular the annual Bonfire, complete with torchlight procession and fireworks, held on the Saturday nearest to 5th November when several thousand people gather on the Green. 1990 marked the 150th year of the celebrations here. The charitable proceeds provide vouchers for those over 70 years of age residents within the village bounds. At that time the Parish Council also distributes the Smith's Charity, and six other charities are available to meet needs and give comfort to our sick folk, controlled by the Rector and Churchwardens. One is for "the distribution of bread to necessitous widows".



THE VILLAGE POND enhances the picturesque setting around the Green. In Spring it is surrounded by daffodils, in Summer the water lilies and golden carp attract visitors, and in hard winters the ice has supported skaters.


COMMUNITY MEETING PLACES

The village
has many cultural and social organisations providing for a wide range of interests. It is a lively place with indoor events and meetings taking place at the Village Hall (originally built in 1926 in memory of those locally who fell in the First World War) with the Cedar Hall, adjoining and at the modern Chiddingfold Club in addition to the Churches and hostelries.

The Village and Cedar Halls were demolished in 1994 and a new modern Village Hall was built on the site in Coxcombe Lane incorporating the "Charles Watts Room" and a Parish council office. The modern facilities have greatly enhanced community life, with the all weather tennis courts resited in the recreation Ground (Glebe Rectory Meadow) opposite, alongside the School grounds. Additional housing was provided "The Oaks" on part of the site in a wholly self-financed scheme which had Charity Commission approval.

On the Recreation Ground in 1995 the Football Club pavilion was rebuilt with a Youth Centre as part of a combined building, with the prospect of the old wooden Scout and Guide Headquarters in Coxcombe Lane being rebuilt at Combe Common as Combe Hall alongside football grounds. Village facilities for its many and diverse organisations and private events have been greatly enhanced. To this must be added the additional "Mullard Building" at St Mary's (Church of England) Aided School. This includes an excellent hall and meeting/staff room built with the refurbishment of the 1868 building, now the "Pinckard Building", when in 1995 the school was upgraded to Primary status for 180 pupils aged 4+ to 11 years.


PARISH CHURCH OF ST MARY (13c.) with its C of E School (1837) have distinct influences on the village history, working closely today with the R. C. Church of St Teresa of Avila, and the Baptist Church as Joint Churches of Chiddingfold. The parish church records, used frequently for research of families, date from 1562. Rectors of Chiddingfold are recorded from 1150 and there was probably a wooden church on site from 10c. The church tower has a fine live ring of 8 bells plus a minute bell dating from 1489; and to continue the glass making tradition of the area the church has stained glass from 13c to 19c and a modern Millennium Window (Year 2000) in the side chapel.

The interesting histories of the Village Parish Church and School are recounted in booklets by H. R. H. White, currently on sale at the Village Post Office and Newsagents, or direct from the Author at Talbot Mead, Ballsdown, Chiddingfold, GU8 4XJ.