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The Avon Valley Path
from Christchurch to Salisbury via Ringwood, Fordingbridge and Downton.
A 34 mile walk through the Avon Valley, a wildlife heritage area
The Avon Valley is a very special place. Unlike so many other parts of southern England, the valley has largely been spared from the pressures of modern agriculture, roads and other forms of intrusive development, and still supports a remarkable range of unspoilt habitats, rich in wildlife.
Much of the valley flood plain has been notified as a Site of Special Scientific Interest, and more than 3,000 hectares fall within an Environmentally Sensitive Area, where traditional farming practices are encouraged. In addition, Hampshire County Council has given a major part of the valley Countryside Heritage Area status in recognition of its special character, history and importance for nature conservation.
The River Avon derives its water from the chalk lands of Salisbury Plain and rises in the Vale of Pewsey. The character of the river changes slowly as the chalk water flows through the sands and clays of the Hampshire Basin, and is supplemented by acid streams draining from the new Forest, before finally reaching its confluence with the river Stour at the head of Christchurch Harbour.
The broad flood plain of the lower valley comprises mainly hay meadows and pastures dissected by drainage ditches and streams which are frequently subject to winter flooding. As a result, they remain mainly "unimproved" and are rich in plant species. Locally, the valley is fringed with reedbeds, marshy woodland of alder and willow, with grassy heaths formed on river terraces.
Farmland, woodland and the Dorset and New Forest heathlands enclose the valley sides, while flooded gravel pits to the north of Ringwood add considerably to the wildlife interest of the valley. It is hardly surprising that the Avon is described by English Nature as showing "a greater range of habitat diversity and a more diverse flora and fauna than any other chalk river in Britain". Wild flowers of meadows and wet places thrive: Kingcups (or Marsh Marigolds), Water Avens, Meadowsweet, Tubular Water-dropwort, Ragged Robin and many kinds of sedges and rushes may be found. Where conditions are more acidic, Tormentil, Devil's-bit Scabious, Meadow Thistle and heathers, including Cross-leaved Heath and Bell Heather, occur.
Areas of sandy grassland within the valley are a rare and special feature, of great botanical interest. Nearly seventy species of aquatic plants have been recorded from the river and its associated channels, and twenty-four species of fish, including Barbel and Salmon.
T
he Avon is justly famous for its fishing, as well as its birdlife. The valley is of national importance for birds, particularly for wintering wildfowl and breeding waders. Flooding and cold weather bring maximum numbers of wild White-fronted Geese and Bewick Swans to the area, as well as Wigeon, Gadwall, Teal, Shoveler, Tufted Duck and Pochard. The Blashford Lakes are particularly attractive to ducks, Coots, Cormorants, Canada Geese and Great Crested Grebes, as well as a great variety of other birds. Large flocks of Lapwing, Golden Plover and Black-tailed Godwits can also be seen in the valley in winter.
In spring, the wetter parts of the valley support exceptional numbers of breeding Lapwing, Redshank and Snipe, species which have all declined nationally due to drainage and the loss of wet meadow habitats. The Avon is now one of the most important sites in Britain for these birds. In summer, the reedbeds, scrub and woodland areas are also home to many other species including Reed Buntings, Blackcaps, Sedge Warblers, Reed Warblers and the rare and elusive Cetti's Warbler. With luck, Kingfishers, Herons, Buzzards and almost any species of wildfowl or wader can be seen! Indeed, there is always much of interest to the observant walker.
However, special care should be taken to avoid disturbance to sensitive species, especially wildfowl and ground-nesting birds such as Lapwing, Redshank and Snipe. Walkers with dogs are particularly required to keep their dogs under close control, preferably on a lead, while crossing the valley meadows during the nesting season (April to July), or when wildfowl are present.
Salisbury to Downton (8 Miles)
Work on Salisbury Cathedral began in 1220 which was built to replace an earlier church at Old Sarum. Today, the city is full of fine historic buildings and the cathedral spire dominates the countryside for miles around. The Path starts at the Cathedral leaving the Close by its South Gate and crosses the Avon at Harnham Bridge which has been in daily use for over 700 years. The nearby Rose and Crown Inn dates back to the 13th century. From the bridge the Old Blandford Road takes you up the hill to Bishops Walk.
From here the Path leads, first up and then across Homington Down. It crosses the A354, then below Odstock Hospital the Path drops down to Dogdean Farm and into the Ebble Valley, with good views of the Iron Age Hill Fort at Clearbury Ring. The Ebble is the last of five rivers feeding the Avon. It rises some fifteen miles away in the west and joins the main river at Bodenham, near the 16th century home of the Earls of Radnor at Longford Castle.
Leaving the Ebble, the Path runs across fields, through Odstock, to Nunton. There are good pubs in both villages. At Odstock Church, which was built in 1297, there is the grave of Joshua Scamp, who to protect his daughter, took the blame for his son-in-law's theft of a horse, and was hanged. After Nunton, the Path winds around the foot of Clearbury Down and across the busy A338 to Matrimony Farm. From here, the Downs are left behind and the ground is level, close to the Avon. Its course is followed, by road and footpath, to the tranquil village of Charlton All Saints.
The Path continues south, past the 17th century New Court Farm, over exposed fields and water meadows to the iron bridge at Downton. For a short stretch, it follows the canal built in the 1690's when, for thirty years, the river was navigable between Salisbury and Christchurch. Near here, too, is evidence of the old water meadows system, which was used to ensure a good crop of early grass.
Downton to Fordingbridge (7 miles)
Downton is one of Wiltshire's oldest villages. Close by was a Roman villa, and the town's records go back to the 7th century. The Normans built a castle and its remains can be seen at The Moot - an impressive site with landscaped gardens. The Path goes through the oldest part of the town, along the High Street to Moot Lane.
At Moot Farm it climbs through fields to the skyline, with a final view of the Downs, before turning south descending into a wooded valley. From here it continues, through woodland, copse and green pastures, to Hatchet Green over the border in Hampshire. Hatchet Green is typically New Forest; thatched cottages overlook the green where ponies graze. Nearby is Charford, where Cerdic defeated the Britons in AD519 to establish the Kingdom of Wessex. Hale Park is a pink-washed Georgian mansion built by Thomas Archer in 1715, approached by a tree-lined avenue.
The Path lies to the right of this avenue, passes round the house to the attractive church of St Mary's and then follows the road through woods to Hale Rectory. Woodgreen Common is reached by field and gravel track. The Path crosses the Common but down the hill is a pub, and next to St Boniface Church is the Village Hall, where the interior walls are decorated with magnificent murals depicting village life in the 1930's.
From Woodgreen Common a minor lane leads to the Castle Hill road. From here there are glorious views down the Valley and across to Dorset. This prominent position is the site of an Iron Age Hill Fort. The River Avon is joined again at Burgate Manor Farm via a gravel path from Folds Farm, across the water meadows. The Path crosses a pedestrian suspension bridge, the only one of its kind in Hampshire. At Burgate Manor Farm the Path joins the main road, passes the 14th century Tudor Rose Inn, turns left at Lower Burgate, crosses the fields, then continues south, over an old railway track, to Fordingbridge.
Fordingbridge to Ringwood (9 miles)
Fordingbridge began life as a Saxon milling community, but nowadays it is best known as a busy market town with a magnificent seven arched bridge spanning the river. At the end of Provost Street is St Mary's Church which, though Saxon in origin, contains fine examples of medieval craftmanship.
The Path goes through the churchyard and leads south, along a route near the river. Across the river is Bickton Mill, now a trout farm where fresh fish are sold. The Path turns away from the river before North End Farm and leads through a peaceful pastoral landscape to Harbridge Green and Turmer. Heavy horses are still used to work the land at Turmer. It is a remote spot where farming is carried out on traditional lines and house-shaped haystacks, the village pond, disused school and lack of roads combine to create the impression of a secret place overlooked by the 20th century.
From Turmer the Path turns east and crosses water meadows to the handsome bridge at Ibsley. Nearby is a 14th century thatched building now the popular Old Beams pub and restaurant. The Path crosses the main road then leads to Ibsley Manor Farm, returning to the Forest at the village hall where it climbs through paddocks to Summerlug Hill. The Path turns south, through heathland where there are magnificent views of the valley, to Mockbeggar and Moyles Court.
Moyles Court is now a school, but it was once the home of Dame Alicia Lisle, who was beheaded for sheltering three fugitives from Monmouth's defeated army. Her body was brought home and buried in St Mary's Churchyard at Ellingham. Just past the pub at Rockford, names after Alicia Lisle, the Path turns off the road onto a bridleway. From here, it leads between the lakes towards Ringwood, following a stream for some of its way. The lakes are water filled gravel pits, now sensitively returned to nature. At the end of Kingfisher Lake the Path leads through an estate between houses and continues under the A31 trunk road, into Ringwood.
Ringwood To Sopley (6 ½ miles)
Ringwood is a bustling town, with a market attracting large crowds every Wednesday. The Path goes through the centre of the town to the Parish Church. Here it bears west, passing the house where the Duke of Monmouth was held prisoner before being taken to London for execution, and leaves West Street by a bridge over the mill stream passing a row of terraced cottages.
The Path leads through a mobile home park, passes Bickeley Common, to the disused railway line where it continues south over the water meadows to Kingston North Common. At Kingston Farm the Path goes past Dean's Farm towards Wattons Ford, before rejoining the road at Bisterne Church. The Path uses the main road for 1/2 mile past Bisterne Manor to North End Farm where a track leaves the road turning south through woods. The Path goes straight across fields to another road, where it joins a stream leading to Sopley. West of the Path is Tyrrell's Ford. In 1100 King Rufus was killed by a loose arrow while hunting in the New Forest. The shot was fired by Sir Walter Tyrrell who then fled to Normandy, crossing the river at the ford now named after him.
Sopley to Christchurch (3 ½ miles)
Sopley is a charming village with a mill mentioned in "Domesday". Today, the mill is a restaurant and close by on a mound is the 13th century church of St Michael and All Saints which has a fascinating oak beam interior. The Path passes the 17th century Woolpack Inn and enters Sopley Park by the Clock House and the old well. Sopley Park was lived in by the owners of the Schweppes Company but today it is a Bible College.
The Path goes through the grounds, then across fields, to join a road leading to The Lamb at Holfleet. It follows the stream into Burton, and then passes through a housing estate to the B3347. Across the road, the Path goes through meadows, the habitat of water birds. The Priory at the northern end of Christchurch can be seen, also St Catherine's Hill which was the intended site for the Priory. The Path crosses the river at the weir by the Water Works, passes under the railway line, and turns right to a row of cottages. At the end of this row it continues to the High Street with the Priory directly ahead.
The Path ends at Christchurch's splendid Priory, built in 1094. Christchurch was known, in Saxon times, as Twynham. It is a historic town with many places of interest including Place Mill, Constable's House and a picturesque walk by the river. The harbour and sea are close by, and it is a place in which you will want to linger, before leaving the valley.
How to follow the walk
The walk starts or finishes at Salisbury Cathedral and Christchurch Priory. The route is well marked with a variety of signposts, nameplates and waymarks, all in the same distinctive colours of green and beige, bearing the bridge symbol. In towns similar markings will be found on street furniture.
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